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In recent years, with the improvement of people's quality of life, functional textiles have become popular among consumers. Using moisture-wicking fibers and cotton fibers as raw materials, the development of knitted underwear products with moisture wicking performance can be well combined. The strong hydrophobicity of synthetic fibers and the good water retention properties of cotton fibers have great development prospects. Some hygroscopic fibers are also a new type of functional fibers. They are designed with a completely new fiber cross-sectional shape. The high profile four-channel fiber cross-section structure and the fluffy yarn structure increase the capillary action of the yarn and make the fabrics The capillary channel on or between the fibers creates a wicking action that allows it to quickly absorb, transmit, diffuse, and evaporate, thus keeping the human skin dry. At the same time, since the polyester fiber does not fall down like a cotton fiber when it is in a wet state, the microclimate between the fabric and the skin can always be maintained and the comfort and dryness can be improved. In the development of hygroscopic fibers, DuPont, South Korea and Teijin Corporation of the United States started earlier and obtained corresponding patents. At present, some chemical fiber manufacturers in Taiwan have also developed special shaped polyester fibers with the function of moisture absorption and perspiration. All of them increase the capillary action through the fiber cross-section profile, so that the fabric has dry and moisture-conductive properties due to the wicking effect on the fibers or capillary channels between the fibers. The greater the wicking effect, the better the moisture guiding performance. Polyester products are limited in their application to areas with high requirements for moisture absorption or water absorption because of their hydrophobic properties. Hydrophobicity is imparted to the hydrophobic polyester fiber, and a raw silk modification method of copolymerizing or blending with a hydrophilic component during the polymerization and spinning stages may be used, or the knit fabric may be subjected to chemical processing and physical processing. Modification method. The modified polyester fiber fabric will have the advantages of good hygroscopicity and comfortable wearing of natural fibers, and will completely solve the problem of natural fibers. When the human body has a large amount of sweat, the clothes will cling to the body, and it will feel wet and cold. Shortcomings.
Second, moisture absorption perspiration polyester fiber evolution process
As early as the beginning of 1982, Teijin Corporation of Japan started the research of water-absorbing polyester fiber, and the developed micro-polyamide fiber was patented in 1986. In 1986, DuPont Co., Ltd. launched the first time of moisture absorption called “Coolmaxâ€. Polyester fiber has 4 sweat grooves on the outer surface of the fiber, which can quickly take out sweat and disperse in the air. The finished cloth is completely dry after being washed for 30 minutes, and can keep the skin dry in summer. 1999 DuPont The company combines the patented technology of low-dose agent fast-drying characteristics developed by the company to introduce the upgraded Coolmax Aim series fabrics. Since DuPont introduced the Coolmax function of moisture absorption and perspiration, many fiber producers in Taiwan Province rely on their own technological development advantages to develop and develop fibers with moisture absorption and perspiration properties. Taiwan's Far East, Huarong ZTE, Haojie and other major suppliers of textile raw materials have invested heavily in the development of related products with moisture absorption and perspiration function. Yuanfang has successfully developed Topcool cross-section moisture wicking fiber, which is produced by ZTE Textile. Section Coolplus new high-tech functional modified polyester fiber, Technofine moisture wicking polyester fiber researched and developed by Taiwan Haojie Group, this fiber has a W-type special cross-section structure, which can greatly enhance the function of moisture absorption and quick drying. BASF Corporation of Germany applied for a patent on moisture absorption and perspiration fibers. This patent uses the improved spinning hole and the method of using PET and PA for two-component composite spinning to make the moisture absorption and perspiration performance of the fiber durable. Recently, Japan's Toyobo Co., Ltd. has also developed a breathable polyester fabric "Ekslive", which uses a polymerization method to connect a "mysterious powder" (a polyacrylate powder) to a polyester fiber by means of a chemical bonding method. Eliminate heat and improve the saturated water absorption of the fabric. It has the properties of “active moisture absorptionâ€, “active release†and “self-dryingâ€, creating a comfortable micro-meteorology in the field of clothing. Japan's Komatsu Serien Co., Ltd. modified silk fabrics by graft polymerization to obtain water-absorbing and perspiration-reducing polyester fibers. In addition, Teijin Corporation of Japan also uses unique chemical methods. A high hygroscopicity silk protein was coated on absorbent fibers to develop "hygroscopic fibers." This type of fiber is more sweat-absorbent, quick-drying than water-absorbent fibers and has an excellent dry feel. Teijin Corp. of Japan named the fiber "Wellkey?MA" fiber. The sweat-absorbing and fast-drying properties of the fabric are 10 times stronger than ordinary polyester fiber. In addition, sericin is an amino acid, and the fabrics that have been used for finishing it are absorbed by the skin when worn on the skin and have the effect of protecting the skin. Japan's Nikkei Shimbun has said that sericin is effective against atopic dermatitis and can inhibit the oxidation of organic matter in the body. Aerocool is called "Alice Cool", a new type of polyester fiber developed by South Korea Hyosung Co., Ltd. that has good moisture absorption and perspiration functions. Based on the four-leaf-shaped moisture wicking program of “Rubiaceaeâ€, the microscopic grooves and holes in the surface of the fiber are used to remove the moisture and sweat discharged from the surface of the skin through the action of wicking, diffusion, and transmission, and the skin is instantly excreted. Dry and cool. Korea Eastland Trading Co., Ltd. has developed the I-COOL series of moisture absorption and perspiration fibers by utilizing the capillary phenomenon and the large specific surface area of ​​the profiled fiber surface. At present, DuPont's Colmax, Taiwan's Fartex's Topcol, Taiwan's Technofine, and Zhongxing Textile's Colplus and other moisture-wicking fibers all have a relatively large capacity, and have developed a series of filament and staple fiber products, especially several in Taiwan. The company's product features are highly competitive and the products have been on the market for many years. In contrast, the development of moisture-wicking polyester fiber in China has a certain gap in terms of time and technology. In recent years, due to the emergence of “hygroscopic perspiration†fiber development and application of the market, coupled with the development of fabric products The increase in demand for moisture-wicking fibers has caused great concern among some research institutes and fiber producers in the Mainland. At present, the market's moisture wicking fiber includes "H" cross-section Colbst fiber of Yizheng Chemical Fiber, Colnice cross-section polyester fiber jointly developed by Shunde Jinfang Group and Donghua University, and Colline five-leaf section developed by Quanzhou Haitian Light Textile Co., Ltd. Polyester fiber, special-shaped moisture wicking polyester filament "FCLS-75" produced by Jiangsu Yihua Yuhui Co., Ltd. (formerly Yizheng Chemical Fiber Polyester Plant No.5). The CoolBST developed by the polyester staple fiber center of Yizheng Chemical Fiber Co., Ltd. fills a gap in the domestic differential staple fiber. The company's CoolBST fiber products adopt a brand-new cross-shaped fiber cross-sectional shape design, which successfully applies the capillary principle to the textile surface structure, enabling it to rapidly absorb, transmit, diffuse, and volatilize, thereby keeping the human skin dry. At the same time, since the polyester fiber has a high wet yield modulus and does not fall down like a cotton fiber in a wet state, the microclimate between the fabric and the skin can always be maintained and the purpose of improving comfort can be achieved. Therefore, it has excellent moisture wicking performance.
Third, moisture wicking fiber concept
Moisture wicking fiber is the use of capillary phenomenon produced by fine grooves on the surface of the fiber to make sweat permeate, diffuse, transport, etc., and quickly migrates to the surface of the fabric and divergence, so as to achieve the purpose of moisture conduction and quick drying. It can be said that the capillary effect is the most common and most intuitive method that can express the ability of the fabric to absorb sweat and to spread. Some people also refer to moisture-wicking fibers as "breathable fibers." In fact, moisture wicking fibers are functional fibers that focus on moisture absorption, perspiration characteristics, and comfort inside the garment. In the past, the application of moisture absorption and perspiration was mainly based on the combination of natural fibers and synthetic fibers, and the use was only carried out within a narrow range. Now, hollow section fibers or irregular section fibers have been used to specialize fibers and absorb moisture. Dehumidification polymer blending methods are mainstream.
Currently, moisture-absorbing and wicking fabrics on the market can be obtained by the following techniques: profiled cross-section fibers, hollow microporous fibers, multilayer fabrics, hydrophilic agent coating, and surface modification of fibers and the like. In particular, the development intention of hollow microporous water-absorbing fibers has gradually emerged in the chemical fiber industry. Chemical fiber experts try to hydrophilize the molecular structure of the polymer chemically or physically, or roughen the fiber surface, profile, and pores. The conversion of hydrophobic synthetic fibers into hydrophilic polyester fibers allows sweat and sweat to quickly absorb moisture through clothing and then dissipate to the outside to achieve refreshing comfort.
Fourth, the main factors affecting the hygroscopicity of polyester fiber
The hygroscopicity of the fibers is affected by the microstructure of the fibers, ie, the chemical structure and crystalline state of the macromolecules; it is affected by the fibrous structure, ie microvoids, crevices, and capillary voids between the fibers. In addition, it is also affected by the conditions of temperature and humidity in the environment.
1. The nature and quantity of hydrophilic groups in fibers
Hydrophilic groups in the fibrous structure are the main factors affecting moisture absorption. Common hydrophilic groups are hydroxyl (1-OH), amino (1-NH), amide (-CONH), carboxy (-COOH) and so on. The differences in the ability of these polar groups to bind water molecules are shown in Table 1 below. The more hydrophilic groups that are free in the fiber, the stronger the polarity of the group, and the higher the fiber's ability to absorb moisture. Natural fibers contain a lot of hydrophilic groups in both plant fibers and animal fibers, and therefore the natural fibers have a relatively high moisture absorption rate. The absorption rate of synthetic fibers such as polyester is relatively low, which is caused by the lack of hydrophilic groups in the fiber macromolecules.
Table 1 The most possible coordinated water molecules for polar groups
Polar group The maximum number of coordinated water molecules
One OH 3
One COOH 4-5
One NH2 3
One NH 2
C=O 2
N= 1
2. The role of crystalline and amorphous regions in fibers
The crystalline and amorphous regions of the fiber microstructure also have a large effect on the moisture absorption properties of the fibers. The macromolecules in the fiber are tightly clustered in the crystalline region and form a regular arrangement. In this crystalline region, water molecules do not easily seep into it. Therefore, the moisture absorption of fibers mainly occurs in the amorphous region. In addition to the degree of crystallinity affecting the hygroscopicity of the fiber, in the case of the same degree of crystallinity, generally, the smaller the crystal area, the larger the surface area of ​​the crystal grains, and the more unbound hydrophilic groups on the surface of the crystal grains, the hygroscopicity of the fibers. The stronger it is.
3. The surface and cross-sectional shape of the fiber
Fibers with fine irregularities or cross-sectional structures with irregular shapes have good water absorption. This is due to the smooth and complete change of the surface shape of the fiber, which not only increases the specific surface area and the affinity of the water molecules, but also increases the moisture retained by the voids between the fibers due to the microporous capillary water absorption principle. Therefore, the profiled fiber and the surface-roughened fiber always have higher moisture absorption and retention ratio than those of the same composition with round cross-section and smooth surface.
4. Ambient temperature and humidity
The effect of temperature on the equilibrium moisture absorption rate of the polyester fiber is small, and the relative humidity of the environment has a great influence on the moisture absorption ability of the fiber. In general, the relative humidity increases and the moisture regain increases.
Fifth, the main processing technology of moisture wicking polyester fiber
From the literature reports, mainly through the chemical modification and physical modification methods to give polyester fiber higher water absorption, water transport, in order to improve the comfort of wearing polyester fabrics.
1. Physical modification method
1.1 Porous Hollow Fibers
Hollow microporous fibers generally mean that the core has a mesopores, the skin has microfibrillar L differentiated fibers, and some of the micropores become through-holes from the surface to the hollow portion. When the polyester fabric is in contact with perspiration, under the capillary effect, one side penetrates the perforation from the inner side and sends the perspiration to the middle hole and distributes along the hollow part. On the other hand, the outer side pores evaporate into the air, so that the water absorption is rapid, and the water retention rate is reduced. The high water rate, good air permeability, better meet the requirements of wearing comfort. In addition to spinning the bicomponent skin-core fibers using a special-shaped orifice spinnerette or obtaining a mesoporous core fiber by a multi-component spinneret, the formation of the microporous structure is the addition of a pore modification to a common polyester. Agent, making it evenly distributed in the polymer. After melt-spinning, it is dissolved in the fabric during the finishing stage, leaving many micropores on the fiber. For example, porous hollow cross-section polyester fibers developed and sold by Teijin Corporation belong to polyester hollow fibers that have many pores penetrating from the surface of the chemical fiber to the hollow portion. The production process is first blended with a special micropore forming agent, and then It dissolves. The fiber has an excellent moisture absorption and perspiration function and a rough surface style. Fabrics woven with this fiber have been accepted by the consumer market, and at the same time, they have become new materials for long-term sales. In addition, the Institute of Chemical Industry of Taiwan Industrial Technology Research Institute also improved the shortcomings of synthetic fibers that do not absorb sweat, developed hollow microporous dry fibers, and obtained the trademark with HydroPore. The preparation of HydroPore fiber is also based on the principle of microphase separation using common polyester and pore forming agent, but the spinning process is different from that of Wellkey Filament fiber. It is prepared as pre-oriented yarn (POY) and then extended into full-filament yarn. (FOY) Finally, the air-deformation processing is performed to form a lofty air-deformed yarn (ATY), which is finally prepared by treating with an appropriate alkali. HydroPore fabrics are 1.5 times and 2 times faster in sweat absorption and drying rates than cotton fabrics. The HydroPore fabric's rate of sweat absorption and drying is comparable to that of Wellkey Filament fabrics compared to comparable grades of Wellkey Filament fabrics. This kind of functional and healthy fiber fabric can quickly absorb sweat and then spread outwards. It is mainly used in sportswear and casual wear, so that friends who like outdoor activities can always keep dry and comfortable. The hollow micro-porous dry fiber developed by the chemical industry uses a special spinning process, which allows the inner and outer walls of the fiber to have elongated grooves and forms a pore distribution similar to the shape of the neural network. Sweat can quickly enter the fiber after perspiration. The internal grooves, which evaporate quickly through the grooves and holes, give the person a cool, dry feel. The successful development of this new kind of hollow microporous fiber by the Institute of Chemical Industry is the first in Taiwan. The main principle is to use physical siphoning phenomenon to increase the water absorption of the synthetic fiber, that is, to roughen the surface of the fiber, shape, pore, and increase the fiber. Surface area to achieve the purpose of clothing sweat, quick-drying.
1.2 core sheath fiber
The well-known type of absorbent fiber is the material developed by Bayer GmbH of Germany, which is a two-layer core sheath structure. Many pores are juxtaposed in the direction of the fiber axis in the core. There are many conduits in the sheath to connect the core to the fiber surface. The absorbed water is selectively retained in the porous core and the surface of the fiber becomes dry. status. Since then, Japan's Zhongfang, Mitsubishi Rayon and other companies have also developed similar absorbent products. In general, a large number of micropores with a diameter of 0.01 to 3 μm can be produced in the polyester fiber, so that high water absorption species can be obtained.
1.3 wet and dry polyester filament
The wet and dry polyester filaments developed by Jinfang Group can increase the voids between single fibers by changing the cross-sectional shape of fibers, increase the specific surface area, and increase the moisture-conducting properties due to the capillary effect. Excellent moisture transmission performance and moisture diffusion performance, and with a good hygroscopic fiber such as cotton, using a reasonable structure, the effect is better, the clothing made is dry, cool and comfortable. Suitable for knitted sportswear, woven shirts, men's and women's summer apparel fabrics, polyester stockings and so on.
1.4 raw material blend spinning
Using a method of spinning a polymer containing a hydrophilic group and a polyester, a specially designed special-shaped spinneret is used to develop and produce a moisture wicking fiber. For example, a modification with a hygroscopic group sulfonate may be used. Raw materials such as blends of polyesters and conventional polyesters are used to produce moisture-wicking fibers.
1.5 Two-component composite spinning
In this method, polyester and other hydrophilic polymers are compounded and co-spun with a twin screw to develop a new type of moisture-wicking fiber having a profiled cross-section of skin-core composite, which improves the water absorption and appearance thereof. A hydrophilic material is generally used as the core layer of the co-spun composite fiber. The conventional polyester with a profiled cross-section was used as the skin of the composite co-spun fiber. Generally, the hydrophilic material was selected from the group consisting of polyether-modified polyester and hydrophilic-modified polyamide, and the two components played hydrophilic and hygroscopic properties respectively. The role of moisture conduction, making this kind of composite fiber has the dual functions of moisture absorption, moisture conduction. To achieve the purpose of moisture perspiration.
1.6 Superfine polyester fiber
The fine fibers raised on the surface of the fine denier fabric form numerous fine concave-convex structures, corresponding to countless capillaries. Therefore, the wicking effect of the fabric is significantly increased, and it can play a role of transferring water molecules, greatly improving the breathability of the fabric and the water-conducting sweat guide. In the same linear density tow, since the number of ultrafine fiber monofilaments is more than that of ordinary fibers, the density of the fabric is changed. The water absorption of the fabric is carried out in three ways, namely the capillary formed by the micropores of the fiber itself, the fiber surface and the fiber gap. Because the ultra-fine polyester fiber is finer than the ordinary polyester fabric, the fiber gap is small and it is easy to form capillary phenomenon and absorb water.
2. Chemical modification
2.1 hydrophilic group graft copolymerization
In the structure of polyester molecules, hydrophilic groups such as ether bonds, hydroxyl groups, and sulfonic acid groups are introduced to carry out graft copolymerization on macromolecules, thereby enhancing the hygroscopicity of polyester fibers. Because the polyester molecular chain structure has a close packing ability and high crystallinity, and there are no active groups on the macromolecule, the graft copolymerization can only be performed under strong radiation initiation conditions such as radiation and electron rays. The grafted and copolymerized modified fiber has a moisture absorption rate of 4%-13.4%, but the cost is high. While chemically modifying the raw material, in order to achieve good moisture conductivity, it is often necessary to adopt an appropriate spinning process or Other treatment methods allow the fiber to have a porous structure and a larger specific surface area.
2.2 Hydrophilic Compounds for Coating
The hydrophobicity of polyester is not only related to its chemical structure, but also to its surface composition. The use of a hydrophilic finishing agent to coat the fibers to change the hydrophobic surface properties of the polyester is a widely used method. At home and abroad, a variety of finishing agents that are mainly hydrophilic and have both antifouling and antistatic properties have been introduced. However, this method is often not hygroscopic due to the poor adhesion of the hydrophilic agent to the fiber. After washing, the moisture absorption function gradually decreases. Taking certain processing methods can reduce this weakness.
2.2.1 Preparation of eutectic crystalline polymers by hydrophilic compounds
In order to hydrophilize the surface of the fiber, it can be covered with a hydrophilic polymer, but it must have washability resistance. The benzene ring of the hydrophilic process agent phthalic acid has the same structure as the ester bond and the polyester fiber. Therefore, when this hydrophilic processing agent is used for heating after being treated, the portion having the same structure is close to the fused state, and after cooling, the eutectic crystal is formed in the crystal structure of the incoming polyester fiber to obtain the durability. Generally, polyethylene 2 is used. Alcoholic segments get hydrophilicity.
2.2.2 Silk Polyester Polyester
Silk sericulite is a highly hygroscopic protein that can be functionally transferred after it is chemically extracted and firmly attached to polyester fiber molecules.
Sixth, moisture wicking fabric manufacturing method
Moisture absorption and perspiration fabrics are mainly knitted garments in the early stage. Nowadays, woven fabrics are also made of irregular profile fibers to increase the ability of fabrics to absorb sweat and create added value. Because sweat is dripping in hot weather or sports situations, clothes that use moisture-wicking fabrics will perform better perspiration. Moisture absorption and perspiration function refers to increasing the moisture absorption and perspiration rate of fabrics by means of profiled cross-section fibers, tissue structures or addition of hygroscopic chemicals in the fabric. The functional fabric mainly absorbs and permeates the sweat on the skin surface rapidly to the surface of the fabric by fibers or moisture absorbents with capillary function. Finally, it diffuses through the surface of the fabric and convects with the air to achieve rapid evaporation and drying. To keep the body dry, the method for making the moisture wicking fabric is described below.
1. Made of profiled fiber
DuPont Co., Ltd. launched the first moisture-absorbing wicking hex groove fiber Coolmax. The moisture wicking fibers introduced by Taiwan Chemical Fiber Plant include South Asia-Delight, Far East-Topcool, Lili-Coolbest, ZTE-Coolplus, Shin Kong-Cooltech and Hualong Coolon. Cross-shaped, Y-shaped or I-shaped cross-section fibers, and Hao Jie Company's agent Asahi Kasei Corporation's W-type polyester fiber Technofine is also the use of fiber surface area increases, so that sweat can easily evaporate to achieve moisture absorption and quick dry function.
2. Use hydrophilic agent to create moisture absorption
After the fabric or fiber is directly treated with a water-absorbing softener, it is often used in synthetic fibers with poor water absorbency. Another fiber surface modification technique is also one of the methods to achieve fiber moisture absorption. Such fiber surface modification is Increase the number of hydrophilic groups on the chemical structure of fibers to achieve rapid absorption of moisture. For example: The moisture absorption function created by AKWATEK hydrophilization processing has the same long-lasting effect as the pre-treatment profiled cross-section fiber. The principle is to use electrochemistry to conduct moisture, and the fiber undergoes chemical changes in the process, which is a permanent process.
3. Multi-layer moisture wicking fabric
Many of the members of the World Cup soccer team wear double-layer fabric jerseys that are composed of an inner layer of moisture-absorbing perspiration cross-section PP fiber and outer layer wool, allowing the players to play the ball to fight hard. This idea was introduced from DuPont's Tactel. Aquator's use of double-sided fabrics with inner nylon 6,6 fibers and outer layers of cotton became popular. Hygroscopicity refers to the ability of a fabric to absorb water, which can be expressed in terms of the height of moisture absorption and the ability of moisture diffusion. Perspiration expresses the ability of the fabric to dry and can be expressed by the rate of drying of water. At present, the requirements for moisture absorbing and wicking fabrics by brand owners are as follows: the moisture absorption height is more than 8cm/15min, and the moisture diffusion capacity is less than 2 seconds.
Seventh, moisture absorption perspiration polyester fiber development prospect
With the passage of time and the development of technology, the excellent performance of fabrics that absorb moisture and permeate functional fibers is increasingly favored by people, and the fields of application are becoming more and more widespread. It is expected that vigorous development will be achieved in the next year or two. Foreign large companies research and develop all aspects of moisture absorption and perspiration fiber products, including fibers, dyeing, weaving, finishing and garments (or applications), which will further promote the development and improvement of production technologies, and the performance and quality of products will be further enhanced. With improved performance, moisture wicking fiber will become a new type of polyester fiber upgrading product. Hygroscopic perspiration polyester fibers are currently under development in the country and are expected to have great growth. In the future, besides being used in sportswear, casual wear and underwear, moisture-wicking polyester fabrics will be developed for various purposes such as shirts, suits, military supplies, medical supplies, furniture, and footwear. Moisture wicking polyester fiber can also be blended with antibacterial fiber, anti-ultraviolet fiber, cotton, far-infrared fiber, etc., so that it has a variety of functions, and can obtain a broader application space. It is foreseeable that moisture-wicking polyester fibers and their fabrics can be expanded to mid-to-high-end markets, increase the market position of textile products, and enhance the ability of domestic enterprises to participate in international competition. The development of new moisture-wicking polyester fibers and the development of related weaving technologies have provided more options for designing comfortable garments. Looking into the future, moisture-wicking polyester fibers have a good market prospect. It is worth mentioning that: According to experts' forecast, by 2010, going out of leisure clothes will guide the sports and leisure market to reach a growth rate of 30%. Therefore, in terms of sportswear and casual wear, the market has unlimited potential for future development. For the future, it is expected that the characteristics of its moisture absorption and perspiration fibers will be further strengthened, demand will be further expanded, and the prospects for moisture absorption and perspiration fibers are also promising.
Analysis of Development and Prospects of Main Processing Technology for Hygroscopic Perspiration Polyester Fibers in the World
I. Introduction